why do my favorite summer dishes...

like soba (i don't feel like eating anything else once temperatures reach 30 degrees celsius)...


blanched bean sprouts pickled in a mix of sesame oil, vinegar and japanese "dashi" (the perfect combination of crunchy and sour)...


and cold, marinated eggplants...


... require so much boiling and grilling? my kitchen is like a sauna!

summer dishes to cool you down -unless you're the cook

more postcards from cinque terre


postcards from cinque terre

cinque terre

the highlight of our 2-week trip in italy was cinque terre. built into the cliffs along the ligurian coast, the 5 towns that comprise the cinque terre aren't just postcard villages dependent on tourism, they're real, wine-growing and fishing communities.


some highlights: "trofie" with pesto genovese (below left), and seafood pasta (right), and (further below) a classic ligurian dish of layered seafood called "cappun magru," which is also the name of the restaurant itself... "cappun magru in casa di marin" is in groppo, a 30 minute hike up from manarola, where we stayed. our server christiane gave us such knowledgeable and thoughtful advice on wine, and the vino da tavola by carlaz was the most interesting vermentino i've ever tasted. i do think ligurian wines are under-appreciated. the 5 terre wine cooperative sold some very reasonably-priced, good wines, and i'm really regretting not buying a bottle of the local dessert wine, sciachettra!



we enjoyed hiking up to volastra and corniglia, and on to vernazza. the views of the vineyards and ocean from the hills were fantastic. but nothing beat the view from our b&b, la torretta, in manarola. i sat on the terrace for hours, watching the sun settle into the mediterranean, trying to burn the image into my mind so i could revisit it when things get tough at work.


eat like locals do in firenze

i tried something new in firenze this time: renting an apartment with a kitchen. the main reason was that my parents, who were joining me, don't like to eat out very much. restaurant food is too salty, too oily, too much everything, they say. and while i enjoy eating out, and love some firenze restaurants like il santo bevitore (above is their zucchini souffle), i agree. it's a bit much to be eating out for every single meal during a 10-day vacation. and what's funner than shopping like the locals do?


so i chose le tre stanze, an old florentine palace that's been turned into apartments. our room came with a basic kitchen and cute little garden. we shopped at the san lorenzo market for fresh vegetables, fruit, gorgeous cheese and prosciutto, and some ready-made condiments. we picked up zucchini blossom focaccia at the cantinetta verazzano, and discovered some excellent, 7 and 8 euro bottles of vernaccia di san gimignano in the enoteca across the street...

my parents couldn't be happier. not only could they eat well, and in moderation, they could also indulge in some embarrassing family habits like arguing loudly over who should get the biggest piece of buffalo mozzarella, and, 5 seconds after finishing a meal, rolling out of our chairs and onto our beds for "digestion" naps!

siena

i still remember the first time i saw the clam shell-shaped piazza del campo in siena. it was 10 years ago, at the end of a rather long vacation. italy, to me, is foreign in so many ways, and i feel that italians tend to not let you forget that. but when i walked into the square, i felt a different, very strange sensation... for the first time during that trip, i felt like i belonged there, and nowhere else. i don't think i'm the only one that feels that way. everyone seems so absorbed in just being there.

i always stay at palazzo ravizza. a palace-turned-pensione that was last renovated circa 1960. it could definitely use some cleaning and freshening up, but oh, the views... 
and something else i saw in siena that made me smile. men of a certain age, out on a stroll:

there's something about rome...


it doesn't have the grace of florence or the sophistication of milan, but there's something about rome i find irresistible.
it was the last week of june and already blistering hot... and rome isn't one of those cities with shaded alleys or cool gallerias. everything is wide open to the sun's rays. so after some walking around, a plate of cool, marinated artichokes was just perfect. so was a glass of frascati superiore (yes there is superior frascati)... and some homemade summer pasta, with barely-cooked veggies and a generous sprinkling of pecorino.

italia!

there is one place i really love to visit in the summer. early july, to be exact. it doesn't matter that it gets unbearably hot and muggy. my favourite things -- white peaches, melon, and zucchini blossoms -- are all in season, and the clothes are on sale.