herring is so underrated!

not only are they relatively abundant and affordable, they're also rich in omega-3, DHA and vitamin D -- basically an edible brain-lift! and considering how fatty they are, they're quite versatile and taste equally fantastic smoked, raw, or marinated. they also pair well with a surprising variety of wines and cocktails, a point proven at the "herring pairing" event hosted tonight by russ & daughters and astor wines & spirits.


i sampled some interesting combinations, including schmaltz herring with thin slices of boiled potato paired with reyka vodka, and pickled herring with onions and cream sauce on baltic rye served along with a shot of vermouth. i was impressed by how fresh the new catch holland herring was. one booth served a raw fillet on a roll, garnished with cornichon and onion, which was excellent... although being japanese i couldn't help but think it might taste even better on rice!



my favorite, though, was the curried herring with medjool dates and roasted cashews, paired with lillet blanc. sweet, rich, and so unexpected... i had to go back for seconds. i've never eaten so much herring in one night, i feel so much smarter now! also, some star appearances: wylie dufresne of restaurant wd50 serving a herring and nasturtium gazpacho, and john zorn and his band playing music.

happiest hour


leaving work while it's still bright and sunny outside is too precious an opportunity to waste on bad wine or sloppy well drinks. if i have a choice i'd rather head to the ten bells bar in the lower east side and order a glass from their marvelous blackboard... in today's case a tokai from slovenia's collio, which borders italy. and if i'm feeling peckish the octopus and potatoes. and more indulgent, the pulled pork sandwich. 

mombar cafe in astoria, ny

one of my favorite places in astoria is mombar cafe, at the "little egypt" end of steinway. they do an excellent, smoky baba ganoush and fava bean dip. and i hear they make great offal dishes, like sheep's brain.



the kitchen is tiny, but as the food shows, it has soul.

memorial day weekend