saraghina

i've tried both the margherita and capocollo pizzas here --both easily the best pizzas i've ever had in new york.

saraghina is the name of the prostitute who dances the crazy rumba in exchange for some coins in that most unforgettable scene in fellini's 8-1/2.

there's nothing vulgar about the saraghina in bed-stuy; quite the opposite, it's a beautiful place. but it does share that tantalizing quality. i've been there 2 times in the past week and still find myself daydreaming about their pizza, the bubbling pieces of mozzarella di bufala, the slightly charred edges, the breezy backyard patio... and i wish i could just run over after work with my little coin and ask for "saraghina, la rumba! more!"

wilco + yo la tengo

+ a guest appearance by feist
+ sea breeze
+ holding hands
+ jetlag
= dreamy...

kyoto ancienne et nouvelle

eating well is not that hard to do in japan, especially kyoto. i love that the city takes pride in local vegetables and that even the modern french and italian restaurants there try to incorporate traditional kyoto specialties.




from top: franco-japonais dinner at l'abbesses in gion. traditional "nishin" soba, buckwheat noodles with herring on top. sea urchin pasta at trattoria minoura in kodaiji.

staying in a temple

there is so much to recommend in kyoto, but for the more adventurous, i think one of the most fantastic experiences is staying at one of the "shukubo" --inns operated by buddhist temples. originally aimed at hosting visiting pilgrims, it's an interesting (and cheaper) alternative to hotels and upscale ryokans.

the downsides first: they have strict "lights out" policies and the temple gates often close at around 8, so you can't stay out late. also, the baths and toilets are shared, and are often traditional-style if you know what i mean. but they aren't really huge problems if you're only staying one night, and are easily outweighed by the positives: gorgeous gardens that you won't see anywhere else, and a unique and very authentic experience of the country's buddhist tradition.

this time, we stayed at "myorenge-in" in ohara. it's a bit hard to get to, but the location is one of its key assets: right behind the famous "sanzenin" temple known for its mossy gardens.


but i would say the best part of staying here was the food.
below: breakfast and dinner, both vegetarian meals, at myorenge-in

o-hara

every time i go to kyoto i stop by hosen-in's "picture frame" garden in o-hara, northern kyoto. it's the most perfect place in the world.





i feel like i could just sit there for hours. and i would probably do exactly that if there weren't so many places to see... and eat...