digital downloading is perfect for me because i'm always looking for ways to get rid of clutter --i want to simplify my life and my apartment isn't getting any bigger.
and yet... since this summer i've spent weekends flicking through bins of used records, looking for classical, jazz and brazilian music to listen to on weekends. it all started when i picked up a fantastic rachmaninoff recording for 2 dollars at a junk sale in fort greene, brooklyn. there were a few scratches, some crackling sounds, but it was an unexpectedly amazing sound. maybe i am just being romantic?
one summer, when i was about 15, my dad took me shoe shopping in london's soho and i picked out two pairs --black leather clogs and shiny blue doc martens. i loved both shoes so much they were all i wore for about 2 years. then one day, i slipped on a pair of keds and was amazed at how light they felt. suddenly i hated my old shoes, especially my wooden clogs. everything about them was wrong: the way they weighed down my feet, the way they sounded, hollering clog! clog! clog! with every step, and the way they made it hard for me to skip, run, or break into dance... that i was more likely to be sitting in the school library reading sylvia plath than doing any of those things was beside the point.
so i'd been observing the comeback of the clog with mixed feelings. then last weekend, i tried on some peeptoe clogs at the store No. 6. with slightly elevated heels and a range of beautiful muted colors, they were nothing like my old pair but just as comfortable. and far more elegant than the swedish hasbeens i'd been eyeing all summer with equal parts curiosity and apprehension. so just as abruptly as i had fallen out of love with wooden soles more than a decade ago, i fell back in love with them.
best of all, they've got straps, so i can skip and dance in them too. ohhh can someone play me some music!!
i've tried both the margherita and capocollo pizzas here --both easily the best pizzas i've ever had in new york.
saraghina is the name of the prostitute who dances the crazy rumba in exchange for some coins in that most unforgettable scene in fellini's 8-1/2.
there's nothing vulgar about the saraghina in bed-stuy; quite the opposite, it's a beautiful place. but it does share that tantalizing quality. i've been there 2 times in the past week and still find myself daydreaming about their pizza, the bubbling pieces of mozzarella di bufala, the slightly charred edges, the breezy backyard patio... and i wish i could just run over after work with my little coin and ask for "saraghina, la rumba! more!"
eating well is not that hard to do in japan, especially kyoto. i love that the city takes pride in local vegetables and that even the modern french and italian restaurants there try to incorporate traditional kyoto specialties.
from top: franco-japonais dinner at l'abbesses in gion. traditional "nishin" soba, buckwheat noodles with herring on top. sea urchin pasta at trattoria minoura in kodaiji.
there is so much to recommend in kyoto, but for the more adventurous, i think one of the most fantastic experiences is staying at one of the "shukubo" --inns operated by buddhist temples. originally aimed at hosting visiting pilgrims, it's an interesting (and cheaper) alternative to hotels and upscale ryokans.
the downsides first: they have strict "lights out" policies and the temple gates often close at around 8, so you can't stay out late. also, the baths and toilets are shared, and are often traditional-style if you know what i mean. but they aren't really huge problems if you're only staying one night, and are easily outweighed by the positives: gorgeous gardens that you won't see anywhere else, and a unique and very authentic experience of the country's buddhist tradition.
this time, we stayed at "myorenge-in" in ohara. it's a bit hard to get to, but the location is one of its key assets: right behind the famous "sanzenin" temple known for its mossy gardens.
but i would say the best part of staying here was the food. below: breakfast and dinner, both vegetarian meals, at myorenge-in
i love kyoto during the cherry blossom season, and during the autumn when the foliage transforms the surrounding mountains into a fiery red. to be honest, though, i prefer visiting in the early summer, when everything is green... every tree a different shade of green.
i've been thinking a lot about the movie Departures since i watched it at a screening in chelsea last weekend. i enjoyed it... such a thoughtful portrayal of the formalities and processes that help us accept death, and a film that, despite its solemn subject matter, manages to strike a balance between serious drama and comedy.
but i had some other thoughts too. i was prepared for some sentimental moments, but it was a bit much. i felt like the director piled on three or four too many cheesy scenes, some a bit too predictable. there wasn't much subtlety to the metaphors it angled for, and the cello scene made me cringe... it's the kind of sentimentalism that is way too prevalent in japanese film and popular culture in general.
but i wouldn't say it wasn't effective. because yes, like everyone else, i was in tears through half the movie! gah!!!! and to be honest, part of me kind of misses that part of japan -- that certain softness, that earnest way.
oh, and most importantly! the actor masahiro motoki appeared in person at the screening, and took some questions from the audience. i was impressed at how articulate and thoughtful (not to mention how absolutely handsome) he was. his acting was pretty good. i wasn't sure what to expect since i hadn't seen much apart from his funny commercials. in the end, though, what really pulled the movie together was the great acting by tsutomu yamazaki, who was in some great juzo itami films like Tampopo... speaking of which, i love this scene:
i arrived at the taj mahal in a truly foul mood. my flight from jaipur to agra was cancelled, so kingfisher airlines arranged for a taxi to take me there instead. the ride took over 5 hours, and i lost patience with the driver, with his frequent stops at gift shops and persistent attempts to introduce me to his "government tour guide" friends.
but once i saw the taj, i was glad i made the trip. it's one of the most beautiful buildings you will ever see.
i was happy to leave agra for delhi after a few hours, though, and particularly glad that i had booked a very nice room at the Imperial Hotel. i took a long bath, sent my dirty clothes off for laundry, and sank into a 15-hour sleep.
the next morning, it took a while to notice that something was wrong. the porter and concierge were hovering over a newspaper behind the desk instead of standing at attention, but i speculated that perhaps they relaxed a bit on fridays. and when the waiter asked me if all my friends and family were doing alright, i thought he was just being friendly. then i opened the newspapers, and read the headlines about the attacks in bombay. i immediately turned on my blackberry, and for the next few hours, sat in front of a computer e-mailing colleagues and friends.
delhi felt safe, though. i also did not find it soulless as my friend from south india said it would be. not the most colourful of indian cities, sure, but it felt forward-looking and pragmatic in a good way. the highlights: seeing the modern india, visiting jama masjid mosque in old delhi and the nearby market, and taking a long walk around the eerily atmospheric humayun's tomb.
after jaisalmer, jaipur felt like a huge, modern city. the city is built around the city palace, which blends rajasthani and mughal styles and still houses a living maharaja. the buildings surrounding the palace are all painted dusty pink.
after a quick tour of the palace, tourist fatigue kicked in and i succumbed --quite willingly, to be honest-- to the temptation of crazy shopping. and what better place to do it than jaipur, with its combination of cheap and lively bazaars, upmarket jewelry shops and block-print textile boutiques. ok, i admit some of this was premeditated, and i had a long list of shops to visit, so i hired an auto-rickshaw driver for half a day to go about this expedition efficiently. the result? by the time i left, i could hardly close my suitcase, even after stuffing all the leather sandals and mini-kurtas into the extra-large canvas tote bag i bought on a whim in jaisalmer. oh, what would tyler brule do?
the hawa mahal (in photo, top) was built so that women of the palace could sit and watch the bazaar traffic below without being seen. i imagine it must've been fun to people-watch, sheltered from the heat and dust of the markets. but then again, i'd much rather be out shopping on my own.
from top left, clockwise: cotton shirts and mini-kurtas from anokhi and fabindia, rings from gem palace, shirt with tourist-tickling block-printed motifs, cushions by abraham+thakore, skirt by thierry journo for hot pink, speeding from one shop to another on my auto-rickshaw, shirts from soma, earrings from gem palace
from jodhpur, my friend joyce and i took the train to jaisalmer, a city in rajasthan's northwest corner and a missile's-throw-away from pakistan. from the window of our three-tier no-AC carriage, there was little to see except miles of desert with patches of shrubbery. but the 6-hour trip was definitely worth it. - on the platform at jodhpur station at 6 am, fellow travellers. jaisalmer is called the gold city, and it's immediately clear why. the city is full of beautiful sandstone havelis, or mansions, that once belonged to wealthy merchants. it's nice just wandering around the narrow alleys, marveling at the ornate carvings of these buildings, occasionally stopping at handicraft and jewelry shops. we also spent a lot of time sitting on the rooftop cafe of our hotel, the killa bhawan lodge. the location was perfect: right across the street from the most beautiful of havelis, the patwon-ki haveli, with a perfect view of jaisalmer's fort. compared to jodhpur's mehrangargh, jaisalmer's fort is less imposing, more personable. in fact, hundreds of people still live inside the fort and there is a lot of foot and auto-rickshaw traffic between the town and fort. the fort itself is worth a full day's exploration --there are several gorgeous Jain temples, and the palace is well preserved.
it's hard to say which is more breathtaking, the view of the fort at sunset, or the view from the fort of the golden city below.
from top left, clockwise: patwon-ki haveli, a lake near jaisalmer, sandstone reliefs at a jain temple, delicious rajasthani thali at killa bhawan cafe, riding a camel in the thar desert, roadside samosa i didn't try, a haveli balcony, view from our room
i fell in love instantly with jodhpur. with a skyline crowned by the massive Mehrangargh fort and the whole city painted blue, it's visually stunningly. and such fun to walk around.
the city does depend on tourism to some extent, but it also has a life of its own. its colourful textiles with intricate mirrorwork, gold-stiching and tie-dying aren't just for exports; i saw some of the most beautiful saris and scarves on the women here, and brightly-hued turbans on the men. i loved watching everyone go about their daily chores, like carrying water back from the communal fountain, feeding cows leftovers from breakfast, shopping for vegetables...
and i was touched by details like these: strings of chili peppers and lime hanging in doorways to invite prosperity, and artfully stacked lime at the nimbupani-juice stands.
