the city does depend on tourism to some extent, but it also has a life of its own. its colourful textiles with intricate mirrorwork, gold-stiching and tie-dying aren't just for exports; i saw some of the most beautiful saris and scarves on the women here, and brightly-hued turbans on the men. i loved watching everyone go about their daily chores, like carrying water back from the communal fountain, feeding cows leftovers from breakfast, shopping for vegetables...
and i was touched by details like these: strings of chili peppers and lime hanging in doorways to invite prosperity, and artfully stacked lime at the nimbupani-juice stands. 
