siena

i still remember the first time i saw the clam shell-shaped piazza del campo in siena. it was 10 years ago, at the end of a rather long vacation. italy, to me, is foreign in so many ways, and i feel that italians tend to not let you forget that. but when i walked into the square, i felt a different, very strange sensation... for the first time during that trip, i felt like i belonged there, and nowhere else. i don't think i'm the only one that feels that way. everyone seems so absorbed in just being there.

i always stay at palazzo ravizza. a palace-turned-pensione that was last renovated circa 1960. it could definitely use some cleaning and freshening up, but oh, the views... 

and something else i saw in siena that made me smile. men of a certain age, out on a stroll:

there's something about rome...

it doesn't have the grace of florence or the sophistication of milan, but there's something about rome i find irresistible.

it was the last week of june and already blistering hot... and rome isn't one of those cities with shaded alleys or cool gallerias. everything is wide open to the sun's rays. so after some walking around, a plate of cool, marinated artichokes was just perfect. so was a glass of frascati superiore (yes there is superior frascati)... and some homemade summer pasta, with barely-cooked veggies and a generous sprinkling of pecorino.

italia!

there is one place i really love to visit in the summer. early july, to be exact. it doesn't matter that it gets unbearably hot and muggy. my favourite things -- white peaches, melon, and zucchini blossoms -- are all in season, and the clothes are on sale.

herring is so underrated!

not only are they relatively abundant and affordable, they're also rich in omega-3, DHA and vitamin D -- basically an edible brain-lift! and considering how fatty they are, they're quite versatile and taste equally fantastic smoked, raw, or marinated. they also pair well with a surprising variety of wines and cocktails, a point proven at the "herring pairing" event hosted tonight by russ & daughters and astor wines & spirits.

i sampled some interesting combinations, including schmaltz herring with thin slices of boiled potato paired with reyka vodka, and pickled herring with onions and cream sauce on baltic rye served along with a shot of vermouth. i was impressed by how fresh the new catch holland herring was. one booth served a raw fillet on a roll, garnished with cornichon and onion, which was excellent... although being japanese i couldn't help but think it might taste even better on rice!

my favorite, though, was the curried herring with medjool dates and roasted cashews, paired with lillet blanc. sweet, rich, and so unexpected... i had to go back for seconds. i've never eaten so much herring in one night, i feel so much smarter now! also, some star appearances: wylie dufresne of restaurant wd50 serving a herring and nasturtium gazpacho, and john zorn and his band playing music.

happiest hour

leaving work while it's still bright and sunny outside is too precious an opportunity to waste on bad wine or sloppy well drinks. if i have a choice i'd rather head to the ten bells bar in the lower east side and order a glass from their marvelous blackboard... in today's case a tokai from slovenia's collio, which borders italy. and if i'm feeling peckish the octopus and potatoes. and more indulgent, the pulled pork sandwich. 

mombar cafe in astoria, ny

one of my favorite places in astoria is mombar cafe, at the "little egypt" end of steinway. they do an excellent, smoky baba ganoush and fava bean dip. and i hear they make great offal dishes, like sheep's brain.

the kitchen is tiny, but as the food shows, it has soul.

memorial day weekend

glimpse of a previous life

this shugo tokumaru video brought back so many memories about shimokitazawa, one of my favorite neighborhoods in tokyo.

there's something about shimokitazawa that's quintessentially tokyo: the contrast between the mad jumble and the calm. the hyperactive child, sleepy salaryman and nutty old lady all in one. it's the city i love. i hope it never changes.

boulettes larder

whoever starts the day with the best breakfast wins

chez panisse

after an exhausting week of work meetings in san francisco, i finally made it over to berkeley and alice water's chez panisse.

it was better than i had expected.

i was so excited throughout the meal i forgot to take my usual photos, except for the starter: local halibut tartare with cucumbers and chervil. just perfect together with a glass of sauvignon blanc, an unfiltered natural process alliance wine from the russian river valley. then i had tomales bay clams with chickpeas. the dishes, however complex the preparation might actually be, came off as being very simple, light and straightforward.

san francisco

new toy

what do you wish for?

after the rain...

everything turned color. dark greens and violets. it's already looking like summer.

i finished reading part 3 of haruki murakami's latest novel, 1Q84, on the subway. the series is only available in japanese at the moment, and i won't go into the story line, but it got me thinking about the concept of a parallel universe. i imagined myself in a parallel universe --a world where this had happened instead of that, where i had done one thing and not the other, or had gone to live there instead of here... then i realized i had totally missed my stop by several stations. i ended up having to hail a cab. sigh.

on classical music

for everyone who loves classical music, as well as anyone wondering about its relevance today... benjamin zander explains it best.

morgon for spring nights

the trees are covered in easter-colored blossoms, and all over town cafes are moving onto sidewalks and boasting of backyards. so you put on your sunglasses and --yay!-- throw out your tights.

but come night time, it gets a bit chilly, and of course, the landlord has turned off the heating for the season. so you put your socks back on and wrap yourself in flannel... and then, what do you drink?

the morgon "cote du py" from jean foillard is an excellent wine for such nights. a luscious cherry flavor but smooth silky palate. it's probably the most beautiful kind of gamay i've ever tasted. perfect for days you want something refreshing but deep enough to "hold you" at the same time. my favorite importer at the moment, kermit lynch.

back in queens

... and wasting no time!

at sripraphai, the best thai in new york

goodbye england...

things i love about london

borough market was crazy at the weekend, but i did enjoy taking a look around. i'd definitely go with a huge shopping basket if i lived there.

the vegetables were gorgeous, if a bit pricey

everyone talks about how london's dining scene has really improved. with a few exceptions, though, they're still best at doing the traditional things like pies, bangers+mash, and smoked fish. i also had some very good cheese on this trip. (below: la fromagerie in marylebone)

scones with clotted cream and jam are my favorite. and what's better than traditional afternoon tea service at claridge's? well, how about waking up to the smell of butter and discovering that your friend has just taken some scones out of the oven, just in time for breakfast?

the new saatchi gallery

The latest show at the Saatchi Gallery (The Empire Strikes Back -- Indian Art Today) was awesomely curated. My favorites were Subodh Gupta's U.F.O. using Indian brass water pots (above) and Huma Mulji's Arabian Delight (bottom), a taxidermy camel that's meant to be a humorous comment on perceptions of Pakistan.